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Maytag Dishwasher Error Codes

Maytag dishwashers share Whirlpool's F#E# code system — an F number for the system and an E number for the specific fault. Drain (F9E1) and fill (F8E4) codes are the most common. Here's each code with its meaning and fix.

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F2E2

Means: User-interface / stuck-button fault — the control reads one or more panel buttons as shorted or held down.

Fix: Unplug (or trip the breaker) for 5 minutes to reset. If F2E2 returns, the control panel / touch-pad has failed and needs replacing.

F3E1

Means: Water-temperature sensor (thermistor / OWI) fault — the sensor reading is out of range, so the control can't verify water temperature.

Fix: Unplug for 5 minutes. If it persists, the thermistor/OWI sensor in the sump needs testing and likely replacement.

F7E1

Means: Heating fault — the water isn't reaching temperature, usually a failed heating element or its circuit.

Fix: Unplug and test the heating element for continuity; replace it if open. Check the element wiring and the high-limit thermostat before the control board.

F8E4

Means: Water-fill / flow error — the dishwasher isn't getting the expected amount of water, or the flow meter reads wrong.

Fix: Check the water supply is on and the fill (inlet) valve and its screen aren't clogged. Make sure the float in the tub moves freely and the overfill switch isn't stuck.

F9E1

Means: Drain error — the dishwasher didn't pump out within the allowed time. A clog in the filter, drain pump, hose or air gap is the usual cause.

Fix: Clean the bottom filter, clear the drain hose and the sink air gap/disposer inlet, and check the drain pump for debris. Run a rinse to confirm it empties.

Reading Maytag F#E# codes

Maytag (and Whirlpool) dishwashers split a fault into two parts: the F number names the system and the E number the exact failure. You don't need to memorise them — just map the two you'll actually see:

  • F9E1 — not draining: the most common code. Dirty filter, clogged drain hose, blocked sink air gap, or a new disposer that still has its knockout plug fitted. All are DIY checks.
  • F8E4 — not filling / flow: water supply off, clogged inlet valve, or a stuck overfill float. Check the supply before anything else.
  • F7E1 — no hot water: the heating element isn't warming the water; test it for continuity.
  • F3E1 / F2E2: sensor and button faults — reset first; replace the sensor or panel if they stick.

First response for most codes

  1. Cut power at the breaker (or unplug) for about 5 minutes to reset the control.
  2. For a drain code: pull the lower rack, remove and rinse the bottom filter, and check the drain hose and air gap.
  3. For a fill code: confirm the supply valve under the sink is open and the inlet valve screen is clear.
  4. Restart a short cycle to confirm the code is gone.

When to call a technician

If a drain code survives a cleaned filter and clear hose, the drain pump may be seized. A fill code with the supply on points to the inlet valve. A persistent F7E1 after a good element, or F2E2/F3E1 that returns after a reset, means the heating circuit, sensor or control board needs professional testing.

Not your code? Look up any error on our appliance error code finder.

FAQ

What is the most common Maytag dishwasher error code?

F9E1 (not draining) is the most common. It's usually a clogged bottom filter, a kinked or blocked drain hose, or a blocked sink air gap — all DIY fixes before any part is needed.

How do I reset a Maytag dishwasher?

Switch off the dishwasher's breaker (or unplug it) for about five minutes, then restore power. This resets the control board and clears one-time fault codes.

What does F8E4 mean on a Maytag dishwasher?

F8E4 is a water-fill or flow error — the dishwasher isn't getting the water it expects. Check the supply valve is open, the inlet valve and its screen are clear, and the overfill float moves freely.

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